The Sequential Feast: Charye-sang
1452 August 3. A banquet was laid out in the front courtyard of Geunjeongjeon at Gyeongbokgung. It was the day after the wedding—the wedding reception.
Royal kin, high officials, and foreign envoys took their seats once more. The envoys from Shangsongpo and Tsushima had come to the palace two days running. They had only watched the wedding yesterday before departing, but today they had heard they could dine.
Munjong took his seat alongside Queen Yu-ae. Unlike the day before, there was no tremor in Queen Sa's expression or demeanor. Only Munjong and the queen knew what had changed overnight.
The banquet began. Yet the tables were bare—no food in sight. The officials began to murmur.
The Shangsongpo envoy quietly asked his interpreter whether the absence of food was a Joseon custom. The interpreter shook his head. Even he had never seen such a sight before.
Munjong rose from his seat.
"Today's banquet shall be served as a Charye-sang. Rather than bringing out all the dishes at once, they will be presented one by one in sequence. Thus, every course will arrive warm, from first to last."
At a signal from Head Chef Han Seong-jae, the first course was brought forth. The head chef called out loudly.
"The first dish awakens the palate. It is called Mil-ok, or Honey Jade."
In a small jade bowl lay translucent beads. They were made by setting pear juice and yuja juice with agar, then coating the exterior with honey.
Left Prime Minister Kim Jong-seo eyed it with displeasure before lifting his spoon to place a bead in his mouth. The outside was warm; the inside, refreshingly cool. With a grave expression, Kim Jong-seo turned to Chief State Councillor Hwang Bo-in.
"Today, His Majesty seems intent on illuminating the Way. Does not the Doctrine of the Gentleman speak of it as 'expended yet hidden'?"
Hwang Bo-in nodded. As the sweet beads were savored bite by bite, the atmosphere of the reception softened.
"The second course is seasoned watercress. From here, the true Charye-sang begins."
It was a dish already famous, popularized by Princess Jeongui as part of her "Gae-i-deuk" trend.
"The third is beef clear soup. It whets the appetite before the main courses."
Grand Prince Hyoryeong stared at the soup in astonishment. Steam rose from it. He had attended countless banquets, yet by the time soup was called for, it had long sat on the table, always merely lukewarm.
At first, everyone ate cautiously, but after the third course, spoons began to move more briskly.
"The fourth dish is fish: steamed shad and eobyeong fish cakes."
The Shangsongpo envoy took a bite and closed his eyes.
The Ouchi clan's secret recipe? No—Matsura must obtain this at all costs.
Already, vast sums had flowed to the Ouchi to secure the eobyeong recipe.
"The fifth is pan-fried meat. A light meat course to begin."
By the fifth course, no one glanced around self-consciously anymore.
"The sixth is beoncheoljeok—the pinnacle of today's Charye-sang."
The term beoncheoljeok sent a ripple through the banquet hall. It was the dish Princess Jeongui had once craved weekly, the one depicted in paintings by Grand Prince Anpyeong and An Gyeon.
Kim Jong-seo nodded silently. The Tsushima envoy was stunned the moment he sliced and tasted the beoncheoljeok. Even at a king's feast, serving beef in such large cuts was unimaginable on Tsushima.
"The seventh is vegetables; the eighth, white rice and soybean paste stew."
Crown Prince Yi Hong-wi gazed at Munjong. The twelve-year-old's eyes sparkled.
"Father, is there structure even in flavor?"
Munjong smiled.
"From light to heavy, then back to light—that is the sequence."
The crown prince nodded.
"Like a ship, no? Light planks atop a heavy keel, then light sails above."
Munjong regarded his son with quiet pride, saying nothing.
"Finally, yakgwa pastries, yugwa, and seasonal fruits. A refreshing finish. Those desiring tea, simply ask the court ladies."
The banquet hall fell silent. Not from full bellies. The foods that should be hot arrived steaming; cool intermezzos refreshed the palate midway.
Crown Prince Yi Hong-wi whispered to an attendant.
"Excellent. Excellent. Excellent. Record it."
After the banquet, the Shangsongpo envoy quietly called aside the Tsushima envoy.
"I thought eobyeong was Ouchi's, but it's Joseon's."
The Tsushima envoy replied,
"Have you tried the pollock roe whitefish sauce? Astonishing at Dongpyeonggwan."
No Gatong came from Munjong for days. The wedding night was understandable as the first. But four days in? Had tuberculosis returned? Overexertion from preparations? Side effects from the Hwaryeok-tang?
Gatong arrived from Munjong late afternoon on the fifth day after the wedding.
Munjong said no more of Charye-sang. Eight parts of his messages were about the queen. Ears rang.
Munjong cut the Gatong short. By the end, evening had fallen. He opened the Annals.
The king went to Geunjeongjeon and hosted the wedding reception banquet. Crown Prince Yi Hong-wi, Grand Prince Hyoryeong Yi Bo, Grand Prince Suyang Yi Yu, Grand Prince Anpyeong Yi Yong, Chief State Councillor Hwang Bo-in, Left Prime Minister Kim Jong-seo, and all civil and military officials attended, as did the Japanese envoys. Choyo-gaeng rose and danced. For the first time, the king devised the Charye-sang: dishes served not all at once, but one by one in sequence.
The next day, Gatong came around lunchtime.
I paused to think. No room for full STEM—science, technology, engineering, math—at the princes' academy. Nor could the crown prince just tinker endlessly with Choi Gong-son at the Investigation Institute. I'd find a way.
I scrolled my phone contacts and called a college friend. Gomin-seok, in the chemical engineering PhD program.
"Min-seok, it's been ages. Do-yun here."
"Dude, how long? I'm good. You? What's up?"
"How to teach basics of science and engineering to elementary kids?"
"What?"
"STEM for a twelve-year-old. No clue."
"Tutoring?"
"Kinda."
"Weird, but easy. I'll make a weekend file."
"Lab address?"
"Why?"
"Just give it."
I got his lab address and ordered five boxes of ultra-refined Heuksan ink right away.
"Dude, how long? I'm good. You? What's up?"
"How to teach basics of science and engineering to elementary kids?"
"What?"
"STEM for a twelve-year-old. No clue."
"Tutoring?"
"Kinda."
"Weird, but easy. I'll make a weekend file."
"Lab address?"
"Why?"
"Just give it."
At the Investigation Institute, Crown Prince Yi Hong-wi listened to Choi Gong-son explain the swift ship. Among the vessels Munjong had ordered built, the swift ship came first. Success would lead to cargo ships and thunder ships, Choi explained.
"Planks butted and nailed hold firm, no?"
Choi replied,
"Iron plates butted and riveted."
"Possible?"
Choi began demonstrating.
"Your Highness, wood grips nails, but iron grips not iron. Holes must be pre-drilled. Overlap plates, pierce with an awl, insert rivet. But plain insertion slips free."
Choi sketched in the air with his finger.
"Heat the rivet red-hot. Thrust into hole, hammer the protruding end flat—like a mushroom cap. Head grips one side, hammered end the other. Secure."
Choi's eyes gleamed as he clapped hands to show. His explanation was about to continue when
the crown prince froze mid-motion. Choi halted, flustered.
"Your Highness, what is it?"
"Nothing. Sudden chill."
As Choi urged return to the palace, time late,
"It feels as if someone charts my path ahead."
* From the Doctrine of the Mean: the gentleman's way is broadly manifest yet its depths not fully revealed.
** Dongpyeonggwan: Lodging for Japanese envoys.