"No Delimanju?" "The Delimanju Era is Over. Now It's the Age of Chicken Skewers and Butter Potatoes."
We pulled into the Gapyeong Rest Area for a quick stop, braving the crisp autumn breeze as we enjoyed some snacks. Delimanju had seduced my nose with its lewd, tantalizing aroma, but damn if it didn't wear out its welcome fast—not even hitting the average person's two-piece limit, I tapped out after just one. I pawned the rest off on S-man, then grabbed some heavily sauced chicken skewers and heart-attack-inducing butter potatoes before plopping down at an outdoor table.
"They must've asked about experiences beyond your specs in that big corp interview—what'd you say?"
"My parents wouldn't let me travel abroad, so I had no choice but to do a nationwide road trip."
I couldn't fathom what was so great about Delimanju that S-man was still chomping away on it when it got old for me in seconds. I mashed some butter potato onto a dripping chicken skewer and took a massive bite. As the Brits—masters of spud-and-meat combos—proved, potatoes and meat are peak cuisine. Couldn't go wrong there.
"For a rest area on the way to Gangwon Province, it seems pretty crowded. Usually these spots are just pit stops, or people skip 'em for better ones down the line."
"And it's not even peak season."
"Right. September's perfect for travel weather-wise, but it's a hassle too. Korea's iffy climate and wild temperature swings mean you're screwed without prep. Plus, harvest season brings festivals everywhere, jacking up prices even off-season. Locals gouge you on supplies."
"Huh."
I scanned the empty rest area again. Was it just today, or always like this? Barely any customers—the staff slacking off—and we were the only ones around. Well, aside from that kid and old lady ghost from way back, wailing bloody tears as they searched for someone long gone. Or the pus-bag human in the smoking zone, nose-deep in an ashtray amid cigarette butts. Or the ones lurking by food stalls, drooling, snatching bites when staff looked away.
"Summer's for wild partying, but fall's for vibe-checking it. Guess everyone's hauling ass out here for that."
"Maybe. Gangwon's fall foliage is unreal. Personally, I rank it up there with Yeouido's cherry blossoms in spring."
"Common point? Goddamn leaves everywhere."
Even now, leaves fluttered in on the wind. Global warming worsening yearly, or just Korea being a bitch? The four seasons were losing their essence—summers and winters dragging on, spring and fall shrinking. Foliage would peak fast, winter hitting early. By October, might need a thick jacket, not a light coat.
I glanced up at the rest area roof, where a water ghost danced wildly amid the leaves, frolicking with lesser spirits. Ways to spot evil ghosts: three classics. Ones jigging freakishly, ones stomping graves or people, or ones with super-long hair.
This water ghost on the roof was grinding lesser grab ghosts underfoot while shaking out its long, flowing hair like some wind-music performer. The wailing kid and granny ghosts shut up mid-sob; pus-bag yanked its nose from the ashtray and slunk into the sewer. The lurkers scattered with shrieks, fleeing every which way.
"That's why I think spicing up highway rest areas could boost tourism."
"Yeah, I agree. All done? Let's roll."
I snapped S-man out of his solo rambling and headed back to the pickup. As we fired up the engine, a thunderous kakakakaka cackle echoed like from the sky. The roof-dancing water ghost hopped down with fairy-like grace, reattaching to the truck bed.
I'd hung a sack of red beans and rice at the rear to shake it off, but no dice.
Well, a beast like that ain't fazed by cheap tricks.
S-man, oblivious in the rearview—head-bobbing water ghost desperately advertising its presence—blasted foreign pop and hummed along, eyes on the road.
"I've driven up alone plenty for family elders' calls, so no worries getting lost. Time-wise... we'll hit before dinner."
"Good. Hope so."
I chewed anti-drowsy gum for a mouth rinse, staring at the whooshing scenery: forests, fields, more forests, rivers. Forests, rivers, fields, forests galore. Pocket watch check: hands spinning mad. When normal, it tallies time to save or erase a spirit. Spinning chaos? No spirit yet—or one too nasty for clocks.
"Any family elders or related folks reachable? Call someone, pass to me."
"Parents gave me a list for emergencies. Dial number two in the contacts."
S-man handed over his smartphone, now humming a tune I couldn't place.
"Hello?"
Namua bitabull Gwaneum Bosal... glurk, hack! Gah! Water everywhere... everywhere...!
Tu-tu-tu-tu-tu.
"Monks chant via smartphone these days, huh."
"Old stereotype—religious folks hate tech. But smartphones are essential now."
Shelving the suddenly-drowning monk, I dialed number two: Hyehwa Seonnyeo. A piercing scream and crashing erupted from the speaker. Ear close: some woman machine-repeating "Sorry, sorry, sorry" in a mouse-squeak.
Service sucks.
"Dead end. Looks like your fam were just deep-pocketed suckers."
"What happened?"
"Happened, alright. Not here—back there."
I cracked the passenger window, peering out. Water ghost in the bed, grinning ear-to-ear, clawing the chassis with long nails: screeeeech.
"Hey! Settle now! Clean heaven or nasty heaven?!"
No words—just dove into the spinning tires. Truck jolted hard; rear tires blew simultaneously.
Screeeeeeeeeech!
Half auto-brakes, half S-man's quick stop—we halted dead center. Scenery gone; thick fog choked the road, primed for ambush.
"Sorry! Tires fresh—why burst now..."
"Shit happens. Don't sweat it. Just that kinda day."
Like Friday the 13th in gloomy drizzle. Humans have bad days; ghosts too. Not full-moon wolfman crap—when yin thickens in spots. Gangwon: massive mountains from north to south. Mountains pack yin despite being land. Theories: ancient deaths galore; cradles ghosts yang can't touch; or ley lines spawn yin.
Shamans ban midnight mountains; avoid streams, rivers, lakes at night. Even pros can drown or possess out sudden.
And here we sat, fogged in, broken truck on mountain road—yin central.
What now?
"Fireworks show?"
"Sounds good."
We unpacked the rest area fireworks set.