Further Expansion (2)
On a mid-December morning, with a cold winter rain falling, the road in front of the Napa Valley Marriott was lined with a procession of black sedans. Passes with winery logos shimmered in every window, and those stepping out of their cars pulled their thick coats tight as they headed toward the convention hall.
“You’re not too nervous, are you?”
Dad laughed, pulling up the collar of his heavy gray coat.
“I’m a man who used to run a business, Brian. I don’t get nervous over things like this.”
“Haha, I know, I know.”
Above the entrance, a banner hung with golden lettering: ‘Napa Valley Vintners Annual Meeting 2005’.
The lobby was already bustling. Wine bottles were lined up at booths marked with each winery’s banner, and people wearing name tags exchanged handshakes and pleasantries.
“Redwood Winery, Woody Choi and Brian Choi, I presume?”
The receptionist smiled as she handed us our badges.
“The stars of this year’s double gold medals. Welcome.”
As I stepped into the hall, familiar names caught my eye one by one. Robert Mondavi, Joseph Phelps, Dan Duckhorn of Duckhorn, Chuck Wagner of Caymus... The titans who represented Napa were all gathered here. The sight of them laughing, shaking hands, and talking about wine felt as if the history of this city had been brought together in one place.
“Whoa... those people are all incredible.”
“Yeah, they’re the people we’ve only known by name until now.”
Even before my regression, I had acknowledged them. The wines they created were certainly worthy of recognition. Just then, Robert Mondavi, leaning on a cane, approached us.
When Dad bowed his head in greeting first, Mondavi smiled.
“Nice to meet you. And we meet again? Is this the second time? I think I saw you at the alumni winery showcase.”
“Yes, that’s correct.”
“I am very grateful for the guidance you gave my granddaughter.”
“It was nothing.”
“It was something. She realized that she has a talent that can surprise the world outside of our family name. She’s learning about wine very humbly now, so I can’t thank you enough. Besides... Echelon and Sylphide. I was very surprised. Especially the finished Echelon...”
He paused mid-sentence and turned his head toward Dad, who was standing next to me.
“It was very impressive.”
“Thank you. I have always held you in high regard, Mr. Mondavi.”
Honestly, Dad had said he wasn’t interested in wine before coming to the States. It hadn’t been long since he’d even learned of Mondavi’s reputation, so the claim that he’d “always” respected him was basically a lie, but his eyes sparkled like a fan meeting a star he’d always wanted to see.
“Haha, I’m just an old man who doesn’t know when he’ll die. You’ve raised your son well. If I had more time and were in better health, I’d love to have a long conversation about wine with him, but it’s a pity. Since the protagonists of Napa are all gathered here today, you should start getting to know them from now on. Just don’t get too close.”
He gave an enigmatic smile and walked away. In the direction he was heading, Joseph Phelps and Chuck Wagner of Caymus were chatting, glancing in our direction.
“I think we’re drawing some attention? It’s a bit bewildering, as this is a first in my life.”
“It’s a first for me, too. Let’s enjoy it.”
Dad nodded and straightened his shoulders confidently.
Inside the convention hall, the round tables were packed. In the center of each table sat a nameplate engraved with the winery’s logo and a bottle of their representative wine.
The event began as Margaret Durie, the president of the NVV, took the stage.
“Everyone, you have completed another bountiful harvest this year. 2005 was a difficult year due to drought and high temperatures, but the result is an excellent vintage with complexity and deep body. Napa has proven our name once again this year.”
Quiet applause followed. Graphs and figures appeared on the slide screen. They showed things like harvest yields by AVA, average Brix levels, and quality assessments by major varietal.
“Although this year began with a record drought, thanks to the high temperatures in August and the moderate diurnal range in September, the balance of sugar and acidity in the grapes was stabilized. Because there was little rain in the spring, yields are down an average of 9% compared to last year, but the quality has actually improved.”
The next slide showed maps and graphs of each region.
“The Cabernet Sauvignon in Rutherford and Oakville has an average Brix of 25.8, which is 1.2 points higher than last year. It is evaluated as being more favorable for long-term aging due to its firm tannin structure and moderate acidity. On the other hand, while the Pinot Noir in Stags Leap and Carneros saw a 12% decrease in yield, it recorded the highest flavor complexity in the last decade.”
Sample photos of each varietal appeared on the screen. I could see the vivid Cabernet clusters under the sunlight and the Pinot Noir clusters in the dark shade.
“Chardonnay only left a successful vintage in areas that avoided the spring frost, and the Mercado (lowland area) saw production plummet due to salinity stress. Therefore, the market supply of Chardonnay is expected to decrease next year.”
Several marketers in the lobby were taking notes rapidly. As Margaret Durie pressed the remote, the slide changed.
“Now, let’s look at market trends. Wine consumption in the U.S. in 2005 increased by 7.4% compared to last year. Among this, the average consumer price per bottle of Napa Valley wine rose by 18%. This means that ‘premium labels’ have more firmly established themselves in the eyes of consumers.”
Owners of large wineries nodded calmly, while some owners of small and medium-sized wineries had eyes that shone. They likely believed that as the brand value of Napa Valley rose, more opportunities would come their way.
Margaret added,
“However, the export proportion this year is stagnant at 22%. The delay in tariff adjustments with Europe and the saturation of the Japanese market seem to be the causes. Accordingly, the NVV is considering expanding promotions centered on the Asian market, especially Korea and China, starting next year.”
The hall grew a bit restless. I, too, stopped my pen at those words. In the Asian market, most people still thought of France when they heard the word ‘wine.’ Especially since the interest in wine had grown after the manga The Drops of God, but the target was mainly European wine, so I was a bit skeptical about whether it would be well-received even if we exported to the Asian market.
Next, a TTB official took the stage. He opened a thick document and said,
“Starting next year, labeling standards will become stricter. To use the phrase ‘Estate Bottled,’ the entire process of cultivation, vinification, and bottling must take place within the same property. Also, AVA name labeling must meet the requirement of using at least 85% of grapes from that region, and in particular, if you use the ‘Napa Valley’ label, NVV registration certification is mandatory.”
Some people let out gasps.
“Then, wine made through custom crush (contract winemaking) can no longer be labeled as Napa Valley wine?”
“That is correct. Custom production can only be labeled as ‘California’ or ‘Sonoma County.’ However, we will give a one-year grace period. You will need to plan your production without errors starting next year.”
The TTB official spoke firmly, and the meeting hall buzzed with the news.
“It’s a good thing we expanded the winery this time.”
Dad whispered, and I nodded.
“It doesn’t matter much to us even if they change the regulations like this, but since it could get tighter if they continue with this trend, expanding is helpful.”
However, this meant that Sylphide would have to be made at Redwood to avoid any gossip, and Cerasia would have no choice but to use custom crush due to the limitations of our tank capacity. Since Cerasia doesn’t have a high unit price relative to its volume, custom crushing would reduce profits, but it couldn’t be helped.
As the TTB official in charge of market regulations stepped down, the NVV executive director took the stage again.
“Lastly, I would like to introduce one winery among this year’s new NVV members that deserves attention. It is Redwood Winery, which received two double gold medals at this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.”
At that moment, the lights turned toward Dad and me.
“The cherry wine Cerasia 2005, and the double gold medal winners Echelon and Sylphide. Redwood is being evaluated as a representative case that proves the diversity and potential of Napa.”
The sound of people’s applause filled the banquet hall, and someone even shouted, “Bravo!” Dad stood up from his seat and gave a short greeting.
“Many things happened to our Redwood this year. We were lucky, and we learned a lot. I hope next year will be a year of sharing that learning.”
After the introduction of Redwood Winery was finished, we went into a mid-event break.
Wine and finger food were placed at every table, and people gathered in small groups, checking name tags. Fatigue and satisfaction were simultaneously etched onto the faces of those who had finished the year’s farming.
I poured a little wine into my glass and looked at the display stand in the corner of the hall, where each winery had placed their representative wine.
‘Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve’,
‘Joseph Phelps Insignia’,
‘Duckhorn Merlot’,
And in between them, Echelon and Sylphide, placed in a small space, caught my eye in particular. And the fact that Redwood’s two wines stood out so much probably wasn’t just because they were ours.
The owners of other wineries were laughing and chatting here and there, but they kept glancing at the two wines that had received double gold medals simultaneously, and at us. An Asian winemaker who had suddenly appeared in Napa Valley like a comet. To some, it was a fresh stimulus, but to others, it was likely an uncomfortable presence.
At this time, a man approached where Dad and I were standing.
“Hello. You’re Woody Choi from Redwood, right?”
I turned my head at the unfamiliar voice and saw a middle-aged man holding a glass. With silver-streaked hair and a face deeply etched with wrinkles, his eyes held a strange weariness.
“Yes, that’s correct.”
“I’m David Hoffman of Ironwood Cellars.”
“Ah, yes. I know. I visited once because your farm is nearby.”
Dad reached out his hand and shook his.
“I heard your presentation today. It was very impressive. For me, I’m quite envious.”
He glanced at Echelon and Sylphide on the display stand and continued,
“Actually, I have a lot of worries these days. I’ve tried everything for 15 years since coming to Napa Valley, but I haven’t been able to produce any clear results. But some people win double gold medals in just one year...”
Dad and I were slightly guarded at his expression, which seemed bitter yet somehow angry. Whether he knew it or not, he shrugged his shoulders, looking despondent.
“What can I do? I’m just unlucky. But if there’s one thing to be thankful for, it’s that the most important thing in grape farming is the land, and I haven’t lost that value. If there’s anyone who likes our land, I can sell it at a good price and leave. But is there anyone with the guts to do that? Someone who would step up to compete with those massive wineries in Napa Valley by spending millions of dollars?”
He stared straight at Dad as he spoke, and I felt something strange. It was as if he were asking if Dad had the guts to do it, while also showing a desperate desire for someone to please buy his land.
Is he wandering between the inferiority complex that an untalented person feels toward a talented one, and the reality of trying to overcome this situation?
“Haha, wouldn’t there be someone?”
“Yeah. There must be someone somewhere. I’ll look forward to next year as well. Did you say Echelon? Let’s see if it goes according to that name.”
After he left, Dad asked me,
“What was that about? Why did he come over?”
“He seems to be struggling a lot internally. He’s jealous of us while struggling with money. But he seems to have money because he’s sold a lot of wine, so it feels like he wants us to buy his land...”
“To reveal it like that... he’s not a good negotiator.”
“That’s true. He seems far removed from sales or business.”
“But is his land really that bad?”
I shook my head.
“No... there’s no such thing as bad land in Napa Valley. If it’s Ironwood Cellars, it’s just a little north of our farm. The drainage is good, and the soil has a lot of iron, so the grape color is deep. It’s not the grapes’ fault that he couldn’t make valuable wine with that. It’s definitely grapes that could make a statement if they met a good winemaker...”
Dad, who read the greed in my eyes, asked,
“Why? Are you going to buy it?”
“I’m thinking about it. It’s 30 acres as a single farm. It’s close to Redwood, too. If we combine it with the Silveroak plot, it becomes a total of 60 acres.”
“...... I will follow your opinion.”
Perhaps because his son is selling out everything he makes, Dad seemed to think that my opinion was the most important.
“Hmm... I wonder how much he’ll sell it for...”
I began to think seriously.